Mount Elden Loop via Brookbank and Sunset Trails, Coconino NF, AZ

Distance: 8.45 miles or 10.65 with Summit Spur (13.6 km or 17.1 km)
Elevation: 7,700 - 8,935 feet
or 9,300 feet with Summit Spur (2,347 - 2,724 or 2,835 m)
Difficulty: Moderate
Time of Year: Anytime, but watch out for ice in winter and thunderstorms in summer

A view to the east from Sunset Park viewpoint

When visiting the Flagstaff area, the Dry Lakes Hills and Mount Elden will be obvious landmarks rising above the city to the north and east. These side vents of the larger San Francisco Peaks rise 1000-2000 feet above the surrounding Coconino Plateau. While many people will do the straight up-and-back climb to the radio towers on top of Mount Elden from the trailhead off US-89 near the Flagstaff Mall, there is a much more gradual, and scenic, loop route that will take you through dense mixed-conifer forests, montane meadows, old-growth ponderosa pine stands, and up to spectacular scenic viewpoints some 2000 feet above Flagstaff. Whether you are a Flagstaff native or visiting from out of town, this loop will give you a great overview of the area.

An old-growth mixed conifer forest

The way to access this loop is to drive north out of town on Hwy 180, as if you were headed to the Grand Canyon. Then, after passing the Museum of Northern Arizona, turn right at the next light, called Schultz Pass Road. Drive down the road until it makes a Y, where Schultz Pass road continues to the left and Mount Elden lookout road stays right. Keep right and follow the road as it passes mini-horse ranches and turns to dirt. Follow the road up, passing the Rocky Ridge Trailhead and then 0.2 miles further park at a small pull-out on the left for Brookbank Trail.

A red-tailed hawk takes flight

The Brookbank Trail ascends gradually through a mixed-conifer forest of white fir, Douglas fir, white pine, and Ponderosa pines. The trail will reach the edge of an open meadow, where you can access the Dry Lake Hills on left. After 1.0 miles the trail reaches the junction with Little Gnarly Trail that descends down to Schultz Pass. Turn right and continue on the Brookbank Trail as it heads around the northslope of the hill, offering spectacular views of the San Francisco Peaks.

Climbing up the slopes of Little Elden Mountain toward Sunset Park

After about 1.5 miles, the trail will cross a flat saddle and then straddle the southside of another hill offering views across the drainage toward the densely forested north-facing slope of Mount Elden. Then at 3.2 miles, the trail reaches the junction with the Sunset Trail. To the left, the trail heads to Schultz Tank. Stay right and the trail will descend down through a beautiful old-growth Ponderosa pine stand, with open grassy meadows filled with wildflowers.

Old-growth ponderosa pine meadows

At the bottom of the slope, you will come across the closed trail for Little Bear/Little Elden, which is blocked off due to damage associated with the catastrophic Schultz Fire of 2010. The forest here is maintained in its historic open canopy state by prescribed burns. The trail will then head up the north-face of Little Elden Mountain toward Sunset Park. After a steep rocky stretch, a spectacular view opens up at the top of the ridge to the east. Here, Sunset Crater, the cinder cones of the San Francisco Volcanic Field, and the neighborhoods of Doney Park become visible. The landscape is mostly devoid of trees due to the 1977 fire that scorched Mount Elden and removed all of the top soil. Scientists estimate it may take 1000 years for the forests to be fully restored here.

Looking out at Little Elden Mountain and the return of aspens from the 1977 Radio Fire

Following the ridgetop, the trail will head toward Sunset Park, where there is a parking area from the Elden Lookout Road that continues up the mountain toward the radio towers. At this stage, you can either descend down the Lower Oldham Trail 2.0 miles through dense forests back to the trailhead, or you could continue straight toward Mount Elden Summit, should you desire to extend your hike.

A view across Flagstaff from Mount Elden Summit

The trails up the slope for about 3/4th of a mile through forest and then into open steep meadows until reaching the radio tower access road again on a flat plateau area. Here, the final stretch to the summit is obvious to the towers. Or, you can stay to the right and head up the short slope to a view out across Flagstaff, with the grassy Turkey Park below. In fact, you can wander around toward Devil's Head Summit with additional radio towers visible. The views extend out across the entire Mogollon Rim region, with Oak Creek Canyon and Mingus Mountain visible in the far distance.

The San Francisco Peaks rise above Turkey Park

Once you've explored the Mount Elden summit area, just get on the access road and follow it down back to Sunset Park. Then, follow the Upper Oldham Trail back down the steep slopes through dense forest back to the Brookbank Trailhead and your car to have completed the loop.

Get an early start in summer to avoid afternoon monsoon thunderstorms

Teide Volcano Caldera Loop, Tenerife, Canary Islands, Spain

Distance: 6.5 miles (10.5 km)
Elevation: 7,050 - 7,400 feet (2,150 - 2,255 m)
Difficulty: Moderately Easy
Time of Year: Anytime

The island of Tenerife in the Canary Islands, just off the coast is North Africa is a magical place. While heavily visited by tourists from Northern Europe, there is a reason why. It's mild climate, diversity of ecosystems, and amazing scenery make it well worth the visit. If you are interested in biogeography, then this is your place, with numerous endemic species who have been isolated from the mainland for millenia. I'll do a series on places to visit on Tenerife in the next couple of week. Today, I'll start with a hike at the base of Teide Volcano.

Teide summit cone with icy chunks on the lava flows

Teide Volcano is 12,197 feet above sea level and 24,600 feet above the ocean floor, making it the largest volcano in the world outside of Hawaii. When most people visit the island of Tenerife in the Canary Islands and head up onto the Teide Volcano, they usually do two things. Either they just do a drive through of the caldera, or they get on the cable car to ride it up to the 11,660 foot elevation of the terminal station. Getting to the summit requires an additional hike up and a special use permit, as it is very limited access. We too planned to take the cable car up. But, high winds and icy conditions closed the cable car for the day. Thus, we decided to go for a hike inside the caldera instead.

Fog rolling up from the outer slopes of the caldera

To access the caldera and trails, you can either drive up from Puerto de la Cruz (the way we accessed) or from Vilaflor (the way we exited the national park). Then, once in the caldera, you can park at the Parador Hotel Las Cañadas or at the pullout just below the cable car station called the Teleferico. Either spot will connect you to the loop. The loop is actually two different trails that connect together, #19 and #16.

Brooms and subalpine vegetation in the caldera

At these subalpine elevations, the climate is dry and can either be very hot or very cold. The elevation is such that moisture from the ocean condenses at lower elevations resulting in a fog-belt that supports the Canary Island Pine forests. But, these clouds do not reach much higher, resulting in desert-like conditions above. As you hike, you will see scattered brooms and small shrubs, but not much else.

The endemic Echium wildpretii grow on the volcanic rocks only in this caldera

The trail from the Parador hotel follows an old dirt track up toward the edge of the caldera. You will see large stalked rosettes of Echium growing on the the rocky outcrops. Like many subalpine plants in tropical regions, it has taken on a classic stalked rosette form. When it flowers, a huge plume of bright pink flowers will climb up to 1-2 meters high. This is just one of the several species of endemic Echiums that live in the Canary Islands that evolved in isolation over millions of years. They are familiar to many gardeners, as a number of species in this genus are grown as ornamentals.

Flowers of Echium wildpretii

The trail from the Parador will weave through a number of rocky formations, past some high volcanic dikes, and then descend down to connect with trail #16 just past a few old shacks. Here you will swing left and follow the track straight for the Teide peak. Along the way you will enter a small canyon, where the endemic Canary island lizard species can be seen scrambling among the rocks.

The endemic Tenerife lizard (Gallotia galloti)

This trail will then enter a dry wash and emerge eventually at the main road crossing the park, with the cable car station visible above. Just as you reach the road, turn left and follow the Trail #16 as it parallels the road through a desolate desert-like landscape along the base of a volcanic cone. You will be able to see the Parador Hotel in the distance, so just keep following this track toward it.

Volcanic dikes, resistant to erosion, emerge above the caldera

If the clouds remain below the lip of the caldera, the Los Roques del Teide will be visible ahead. The remnant of a volcanic dikes. But, it is always possible that the fog will rise up and into the caldera, obscuring the views, but also cooling you down in the hot sun of the mid-day.

Along the trail in the caldera...La Canada ridge beyond

Soon you will return to your vehicle. If the weather permits, you can ride the Teleferico up to over 11,000 feet for a view out across the entire island. But, it is also possible that high winds or icy conditions will make that not possible. Keep checking out the website for additional places to visit on the island of Tenerife.

Los Roques del Teide