Teide Volcano Caldera Loop, Tenerife, Canary Islands, Spain

Distance: 6.5 miles (10.5 km)
Elevation: 7,050 - 7,400 feet (2,150 - 2,255 m)
Difficulty: Moderately Easy
Time of Year: Anytime

The island of Tenerife in the Canary Islands, just off the coast is North Africa is a magical place. While heavily visited by tourists from Northern Europe, there is a reason why. It's mild climate, diversity of ecosystems, and amazing scenery make it well worth the visit. If you are interested in biogeography, then this is your place, with numerous endemic species who have been isolated from the mainland for millenia. I'll do a series on places to visit on Tenerife in the next couple of week. Today, I'll start with a hike at the base of Teide Volcano.

Teide summit cone with icy chunks on the lava flows

Teide Volcano is 12,197 feet above sea level and 24,600 feet above the ocean floor, making it the largest volcano in the world outside of Hawaii. When most people visit the island of Tenerife in the Canary Islands and head up onto the Teide Volcano, they usually do two things. Either they just do a drive through of the caldera, or they get on the cable car to ride it up to the 11,660 foot elevation of the terminal station. Getting to the summit requires an additional hike up and a special use permit, as it is very limited access. We too planned to take the cable car up. But, high winds and icy conditions closed the cable car for the day. Thus, we decided to go for a hike inside the caldera instead.

Fog rolling up from the outer slopes of the caldera

To access the caldera and trails, you can either drive up from Puerto de la Cruz (the way we accessed) or from Vilaflor (the way we exited the national park). Then, once in the caldera, you can park at the Parador Hotel Las Cañadas or at the pullout just below the cable car station called the Teleferico. Either spot will connect you to the loop. The loop is actually two different trails that connect together, #19 and #16.

Brooms and subalpine vegetation in the caldera

At these subalpine elevations, the climate is dry and can either be very hot or very cold. The elevation is such that moisture from the ocean condenses at lower elevations resulting in a fog-belt that supports the Canary Island Pine forests. But, these clouds do not reach much higher, resulting in desert-like conditions above. As you hike, you will see scattered brooms and small shrubs, but not much else.

The endemic Echium wildpretii grow on the volcanic rocks only in this caldera

The trail from the Parador hotel follows an old dirt track up toward the edge of the caldera. You will see large stalked rosettes of Echium growing on the the rocky outcrops. Like many subalpine plants in tropical regions, it has taken on a classic stalked rosette form. When it flowers, a huge plume of bright pink flowers will climb up to 1-2 meters high. This is just one of the several species of endemic Echiums that live in the Canary Islands that evolved in isolation over millions of years. They are familiar to many gardeners, as a number of species in this genus are grown as ornamentals.

Flowers of Echium wildpretii

The trail from the Parador will weave through a number of rocky formations, past some high volcanic dikes, and then descend down to connect with trail #16 just past a few old shacks. Here you will swing left and follow the track straight for the Teide peak. Along the way you will enter a small canyon, where the endemic Canary island lizard species can be seen scrambling among the rocks.

The endemic Tenerife lizard (Gallotia galloti)

This trail will then enter a dry wash and emerge eventually at the main road crossing the park, with the cable car station visible above. Just as you reach the road, turn left and follow the Trail #16 as it parallels the road through a desolate desert-like landscape along the base of a volcanic cone. You will be able to see the Parador Hotel in the distance, so just keep following this track toward it.

Volcanic dikes, resistant to erosion, emerge above the caldera

If the clouds remain below the lip of the caldera, the Los Roques del Teide will be visible ahead. The remnant of a volcanic dikes. But, it is always possible that the fog will rise up and into the caldera, obscuring the views, but also cooling you down in the hot sun of the mid-day.

Along the trail in the caldera...La Canada ridge beyond

Soon you will return to your vehicle. If the weather permits, you can ride the Teleferico up to over 11,000 feet for a view out across the entire island. But, it is also possible that high winds or icy conditions will make that not possible. Keep checking out the website for additional places to visit on the island of Tenerife.

Los Roques del Teide

Bear Mountain, Sedona Red Rocks, Arizona

Distance: 5.4 miles
Elevation: 4750 - 6650 feet
Difficulty: Strenuous
Time of Year: October - May

The start of the trail with the first "step" ahead

Bear Mountain may be the most spectacular day hike in the Sedona Red Rocks region, and that is saying a lot! It is very steep, quite rugged, but the views are absolutely incredible.  The mountain is sort of like a large staircase, consisting of several more level areas punctuated by steep rocky inclines. However, as much as my knees ached following the hike, my little 5-year old daughter made it to the top, so it isn't too bad.

Approaching the amphitheater and the edge of the cliff to the 2nd "step"

To access the trailhead, take Dry Creek road north from Hwy 89A in West Sedona to the junction with Boynton Canyon Road. Turn left and follow the road past the Boynton Canyon Resort and off toward Palatki Ruins. After passing the parking area for Fay Canyon, look for a large parking area on the left. From here, there are two trailheads. The easier and shorter Doe Mountain leaves from the lot, while Bear Mountain trail leaves from across the road.

The view from the top of the 2nd step with the Verde Rim visible

The trail starts out crossing a couple of washes along the sediments at the base of the mountain. But, once you hit the red rocks, it climbs pretty steeply up the slope. Keep your eyes out for the rock cairns showing the safest route. The trail makes it to the top of the first "step" in under half a mile. But, then the trail heads up into an amphitheater and looking at the steep cliffs in the back you figure there is no way up on top of the plateau. Soon however, you head up a steep notch in deeply indented switchbacks and before you know it, you have a spectacular view looking down upon the flats and trailhead a few hundred feet down.

Hiking across the plateau of the 2nd step with Bear Mountain summit visible beyond

The view from here would be impressive enough, but there is much more to do. Looking north, you can see the summit of Bear Mountain rising as just a smooth ridge a little above the plateau you are on. Looks can be deceiving. After a stretch of relatively flat hiking with an gradual incline, the trail comes up to the edge of two canyons dropping steeply down below. You have to descend down to the isthmus between the canyons and then the trail starts up again very steeply.

A view down onto the 2nd step (flat area) from the 3rd step

Along this ascent, the rocks change over from the red Supai Group formation that is distinctive of Sedona to the wavey layers of Coconino Sandstone that preserve the ancient sand dunes of a once vast desert. The trail climbs up higher and higher, allowing views over the Verde Rim off to Granite Mountain and the Mazatzal Mountains far off to the southwest and southeast respectively. As the trail reaches the first ponderosa pines clinging to the precarious cliffs, a view into spectacular Fay Canyon opens up.

A view down into Fay Canyon from the Coconino sandstone

The trail all-but-disappears on this sandstone, so it is very important to continue to watch for the rock cairns. Suddenly you feel like you are in a different world. This area has some real similarities to hiking at Zion National Park, as the cross-beaded sandstone has oaks and pines clinging to cracks above deep red canyons below. However, this is Coconino Sandstone, not the Navajo Sandstone found further north that would sit several layers higher if it had still remained in this area.

Pines clinging to Coconino sandstone beds near the top of Bear Mountain

At the edge of the where the Coconino Sandstone transitions into Kaibab Limestone is one of the most spectacular places to rest and soak in the views. There are nice shade trees, flat rocks to lay or sit on, and a great place for a snack and drink before the final ascent to the summit. Truth be told, this is actually where the best views are. But, one must reach the summit I suppose, so after a long rest, it was time to conquer the final couple hundred feet.

San Francisco Peaks visible from the summit of Bear Mountain

The climb on the Kaibab Limestone is slippery, dusty, and much more difficult footing than on the sandstone. You lose your views into the canyon as well. But, upon reaching the summit of Bear Mountain, you can get your first and only glimpse out across the Mogollon Rim and Coconino Plateau. The snow-capped San Francisco Peaks are visible to the north, while Bill Williams Mountain can be seen to the northwest. Since that is where most of the hikers will congregate, I didn't long and headed back down to my more shaded and lovely spot one level below.

Heading down across the Coconino Sandstone

As hikers often say, it is much easier going up than going down. Not only is the traction easier, but your knees do not take the pounding. Thus, it often takes more time going down than it did to go up, despite taking more energy to go up. Now that you have to descend some 2,000 feet, take your time, soak in the views, and watch your footing.

Looking down into Fay Canyon

In many ways, with the "goal" of reaching the top out of the way, it is easier to really just absorb the magnificent beauty of the region on your way down. But, do be warned if you have bad knees, take it easy and you probably should use hiking sticks to absorb the blows.

A view down one of the side canyons near "The Isthmus"

Bear Mountain is a true masterpiece of Central Arizona. Be aware of extreme heat in summer. Rattlesnakes can be found on the trail in the heat of the summer as well. This hike should only be done in the spring or fall and be aware of possible ice in winter. But, if the weather is right and you are up to it, I am not sure any place in the region can be beaten for just pure scenic views and variety.