Flume Trail, Fossil Springs Wilderness, Coconino NF, AZ

Distance: 8.1 miles roundtrip (13.1 km)

Elevation: 3,765 - 4,350 feet (1,148 - 1,326 m)

Difficulty: Moderate

Time of Year: September - May (avoid heat and crowds of summer)

Fossil Creek is one of the true gems of Central Arizona. At its source, at the base of the Mogollon Rim emerges from the ground some 20,000 gallons of water per minute. Instantly, the arid pinyon-juniper forest gives way to a lush riparian stand of deciduous trees including cottonwoods, box-elder, Arizona walnut, Arizona ash, and Arizona sycamores. The water is rich in calcium carbonate, which gives the water a turquoise hue and encases whatever falls into it in travertine, thus giving the name Fossil Springs. In the heat of the summer, or even fall for that matter, these cool waters invite one to take a dip after a hot 4 mile hike to the springs. It isn't easy to get here and the crowds can be thick in summer with swimmers at the easy-access pools. But, in October and November it offers a spectacular array of fall colors for the eye to behold.

A view of the Fossil Creek Wilderness and Mogollon Rim from near Strawberry

This area once had a 100-year old flume that transported water from the springs to an APS hydroelectric powerplant. This meant that most of the creekbed was dry, with scattered pools emerging from ground water that escaped the pumps of the flume. However, in 2008, APS decided that the small amount of electricity did not justify the environmental damage of redirecting the flow and disassembled the powerplant and flume, allowing the creek to flow free once more. In addition, all non-native fish were removed from the creek and native fish like headwater chubs were reintroduced. In 2009, Fossil Creek became a National Wild and Scenic River.

The crossing at the trailhead

The old way to access Fossil Creek was from the town of Strawberry, but that road washed out and probably won't reopen until 2015 at the earliest. Currently, the only way to go is to take Fossil Creek Road (FR708) from AZ-260 just east of Camp Verde. The road is 15 bumpy miles long to reach the creek, but it offers beautiful views of the Verde Rim. Watch out for hunters driving too fast and leaving you with clouds of dust in the fall. After crossing the Fossil Creek bridge, continue for another mile until arriving at the parking area of the trailhead just before the closed gate.

The trail starts off by crossing the creek on a wide-shallow section that used to be the road to the old housing area when this was a powerplant and housing area. The trail then follows the old flume road up the slope paralleling the creek, gradually gaining about 600 feet in elevation. From high up on the arid slopes, you can see the lush green riparian strip below and patches of open water or waterfalls are visible between the trees.

Looking down into the canyon

With this route being on a south-facing slope and temperatures at this elevation routinely rising above 90 degrees in summer, I would not recommend doing this trail in summer. In addition, they often close the access road to the trailhead due to the huge numbers of people arriving to swim in the pools further downstream. However, it is plenty warm in spring and fall for this hike.

This is what the old flume looked like when we visited 10 years ago.
It's gone now!

In places you can see where the old flume ran, as old post-supports and eroded slopes are visible. But, for the most part, the signs it was ever there are gone. Along the way, there are a number of side canyons that have beautiful old sycamores and box-elder coming down the slopes and some much needed shade on a hot day. As you approach the final 1 mile, you will definitely be looking forward to the 72 degree waters and shade of the riparian forest when you reach the bottom.

A sycamore along the edge of the riparian forest

Upon reaching the headwaters, there is an old diversion dam that had completely filled with sediment such that it is now a waterfall. Then, just a few hundred feet further upsteam, you reach the springs and then the bare rocky intermittent stretches of the creek above that. Look on the edges of the creek and you will see "fossilized" leaves that have been coated in calcium carbonate, and small travertine dams and falls anyplace a branch or log fell into the creek and minerals began depositing on it.

The springs with its numerous little travertine dams

At many of the open pools, you will see schools of headwater and roundtailed chub swimming around where you once would see non-native predatory fish like trout before. You may also get to see endangered Chiricahua leopard frogs and canyon treefrogs leaping into the water.

The native chubs are back

Watch for a myriad of butterfly species coating the banks of the river, plus numerous damselflies and dragonflies doing their dance across the water looking for prey or mates. You will want to stay for hours at this marvel of nature, swimming, relaxing, enjoying the soothing sounds of the riffles, or listening to the dozens of bird species that make this desert oasis their home.

In fact, the worst part of this hike is the 4 mile hike back in the heat of the sun, looking down on those inviting waters 400 feet below and wishing you did not have to trek back. But, there is one last saving grace. You have to cross the creek again at the trailhead, which will give you once last chance to splash around and cool off before you begin the bumpy drive back to civilization.

One last look down onto the waters before trekking back

Mount Elden Loop via Brookbank and Sunset Trails, Coconino NF, AZ

Distance: 8.45 miles or 10.65 with Summit Spur (13.6 km or 17.1 km)
Elevation: 7,700 - 8,935 feet
or 9,300 feet with Summit Spur (2,347 - 2,724 or 2,835 m)
Difficulty: Moderate
Time of Year: Anytime, but watch out for ice in winter and thunderstorms in summer

A view to the east from Sunset Park viewpoint

When visiting the Flagstaff area, the Dry Lakes Hills and Mount Elden will be obvious landmarks rising above the city to the north and east. These side vents of the larger San Francisco Peaks rise 1000-2000 feet above the surrounding Coconino Plateau. While many people will do the straight up-and-back climb to the radio towers on top of Mount Elden from the trailhead off US-89 near the Flagstaff Mall, there is a much more gradual, and scenic, loop route that will take you through dense mixed-conifer forests, montane meadows, old-growth ponderosa pine stands, and up to spectacular scenic viewpoints some 2000 feet above Flagstaff. Whether you are a Flagstaff native or visiting from out of town, this loop will give you a great overview of the area.

An old-growth mixed conifer forest

The way to access this loop is to drive north out of town on Hwy 180, as if you were headed to the Grand Canyon. Then, after passing the Museum of Northern Arizona, turn right at the next light, called Schultz Pass Road. Drive down the road until it makes a Y, where Schultz Pass road continues to the left and Mount Elden lookout road stays right. Keep right and follow the road as it passes mini-horse ranches and turns to dirt. Follow the road up, passing the Rocky Ridge Trailhead and then 0.2 miles further park at a small pull-out on the left for Brookbank Trail.

A red-tailed hawk takes flight

The Brookbank Trail ascends gradually through a mixed-conifer forest of white fir, Douglas fir, white pine, and Ponderosa pines. The trail will reach the edge of an open meadow, where you can access the Dry Lake Hills on left. After 1.0 miles the trail reaches the junction with Little Gnarly Trail that descends down to Schultz Pass. Turn right and continue on the Brookbank Trail as it heads around the northslope of the hill, offering spectacular views of the San Francisco Peaks.

Climbing up the slopes of Little Elden Mountain toward Sunset Park

After about 1.5 miles, the trail will cross a flat saddle and then straddle the southside of another hill offering views across the drainage toward the densely forested north-facing slope of Mount Elden. Then at 3.2 miles, the trail reaches the junction with the Sunset Trail. To the left, the trail heads to Schultz Tank. Stay right and the trail will descend down through a beautiful old-growth Ponderosa pine stand, with open grassy meadows filled with wildflowers.

Old-growth ponderosa pine meadows

At the bottom of the slope, you will come across the closed trail for Little Bear/Little Elden, which is blocked off due to damage associated with the catastrophic Schultz Fire of 2010. The forest here is maintained in its historic open canopy state by prescribed burns. The trail will then head up the north-face of Little Elden Mountain toward Sunset Park. After a steep rocky stretch, a spectacular view opens up at the top of the ridge to the east. Here, Sunset Crater, the cinder cones of the San Francisco Volcanic Field, and the neighborhoods of Doney Park become visible. The landscape is mostly devoid of trees due to the 1977 fire that scorched Mount Elden and removed all of the top soil. Scientists estimate it may take 1000 years for the forests to be fully restored here.

Looking out at Little Elden Mountain and the return of aspens from the 1977 Radio Fire

Following the ridgetop, the trail will head toward Sunset Park, where there is a parking area from the Elden Lookout Road that continues up the mountain toward the radio towers. At this stage, you can either descend down the Lower Oldham Trail 2.0 miles through dense forests back to the trailhead, or you could continue straight toward Mount Elden Summit, should you desire to extend your hike.

A view across Flagstaff from Mount Elden Summit

The trails up the slope for about 3/4th of a mile through forest and then into open steep meadows until reaching the radio tower access road again on a flat plateau area. Here, the final stretch to the summit is obvious to the towers. Or, you can stay to the right and head up the short slope to a view out across Flagstaff, with the grassy Turkey Park below. In fact, you can wander around toward Devil's Head Summit with additional radio towers visible. The views extend out across the entire Mogollon Rim region, with Oak Creek Canyon and Mingus Mountain visible in the far distance.

The San Francisco Peaks rise above Turkey Park

Once you've explored the Mount Elden summit area, just get on the access road and follow it down back to Sunset Park. Then, follow the Upper Oldham Trail back down the steep slopes through dense forest back to the Brookbank Trailhead and your car to have completed the loop.

Get an early start in summer to avoid afternoon monsoon thunderstorms