Hemmed In Hollow, Ponca Wilderness, Buffalo National River, Arkansas

Distance: 5.1 miles (8.2 km) or 6.8 miles (11.0 km) with optional side trip to the river.

Elevation: 2300 - 985 feet (700 - 300 meters)

Difficulty: Strenuous

Best Time of Year: October-May (watch for ticks, insects, humidity, and storms in summer and ice in winter)

Many people have described Hemmed In Hollow, in the Ponca Wilderness of the Buffalo National River as perhaps the highlight hike in all of Arkansas. Since our exploration of the state has only just begun, I can not say that definitively. But, I can say it is a spectacular hike which provides both an interesting cross-section of the geology and ecology of the Ozarks, but also some interesting parallels to the riparian canyons and formations we've hiked in the Mogollon Rim of Arizona.

Oak/Hickory Forest

To access the trail, drive on Highway 43 toward Ponca, AR. When you get to Compton, AR just north of the river from Ponca turn west (a left if you are coming from Harrison) and drive 0.8 miles to the Hemmed In Hollow Trailhead.

The trail begins in an oak/hickory forest with scattered shortleaf pines and eastern red cedars. The trail is pretty level at first as it slowly descends. But, once you reach the edge of the hill, it begins to descend much more rapidly, with numerous rock steps there for your convenience. When you arrive at an intersection less than 1/2 mile down the trail, stay straight. There was a sign there, but it was laying on the ground when we went past. This is the "bluff trail" you are crossing.

From here the trail steepens even more and in addition to the rock steps, there are some steep drops over the rock formations. Along the way, there are tantalizing glimpses of the wilderness and rocky cliffs of Hemmed In Hollow between the trees. But, no place to actually take any pictures of it.

Trying to see the landscape through the trees

A better glimpse

Well, that is until you reach the 1.6 mile spot. Then, the trail arrives at a rocky outcropping with an excellent view across Hemmed In Hollow to the falls below. There was virtually no water when we arrived, so the falls were nothing more than a wet part of the cliffs. But, it is probably pretty spectacular when the falls are raging.

View of the falls from the overlook

A little bit lower beyond the overlook is the trail junction. To the left, you can head 0.7 miles to the Hemmed In Hollow Falls and to the right you can descend down 0.8 miles to the Buffalo River. Most trail descriptions ignore this side trip to the river and thus talk about Hemmed In Hollow being 5 miles roundtrip. But, if you have the time, I recommend this side trip to the river. It's a beautiful area.

The view along the river

The trail down passes through some interesting forest types and rock formations.

There is a column of rock with cacti on top and some open pine/cedar stands.

Interesting rock formations along the river

Once you arrive at the river, turn left and follow the river a few hundred meters down stream to see the neat cliffs and rocky ledges pictured above.

Shagback Hickory along the trail

OK, once you are done eating lunch at river head back up the slope and then at the trail junction, head down to Hemmed In Hollow. There is actually a route directly up from the river, which would allow you to make a loop instead of backtracking. We walked on it a bit on the way back when we did a wrong turn. But, it requires you to cross the river from the bottom. It would have been possible now, but if water was flowing more heavily, I am not sure how easy it would be. Some people we talked to said they use it when they are floating the river.

It's hard to capture Hemmed In Hollow on camera because of the trees

On the way down to Hemmed In Hollow, you will be passing through some beech stands. Beech are fairly rare in Arkansas and this is an exceptional stand with some really large specimens. The trail descends into the hollow and then into the back of an amazing amphitheater hundreds of feet high. It is reminiscent of formations we've seen in Utah.

Approaching the falls

Unfortunately, the waterfall was just too high to capture by camera, given we were standing directly under it. But, it certainly was an amazing place and I highly recommend visiting. This is the highest waterfall between the Rockies and the Appalachians at 240 feet tall. The water just just trickling now, but I am sure it is a torrent after a summer thunderstorm.

Rocky cliffs along the sides of the trail

Just remember, what goes down must come up. You now have some 1200 feet to climb back up. That is why I call it strenuous. It isn't so bad really, except I did have a nearly 3 year old on my back! But, it is well worth the effort to see these amazing sites in the Ozarks.

Coy Bald Loop, Hercules Glades Wilderness, Mark Twain NF, Missouri

Distance: 6.7 miles (10.6 km)
Elevation: 880 - 1220 feet (268 - 372 m)
Difficulty: Moderately Easy
Time of Year: Any time but October is the best!

View across the ridges from Coy Bald

Described by many as the greatest natural area in Missouri, Hercules Glades Wilderness in the Mark Twain National Forest certainly does provide for scenic beauty, ecological diversity, and interesting variety. At 12,200 acres, this wilderness is the 2nd largest in Missouri. It is located at the northern edges of the Ozarks and provides some interesting mixes of ecosystems due to its limestone/dolomite glades and balds. You can access this wilderness by taking MO-76 east out of Forsyth, MO, turning right onto US Hwy 160 and then turning left on Crosstimbers Road and following it to the end.

The trail begins in a forest of white oak and eastern red cedar. There are hickory, sassafras, and sugar maples mixed in, with plentiful poison ivy in the understory. When the trail branches shortly after entering the wilderness fence, bear left.

Within 1/2 mile, you descend down to Long Creek and to the beautiful limestone bluffs that rise on the far side. Along the sides of the cliffs, sugar maples add a brilliant hue of red. The waters are clear and cool and a great place to splash around on a hot day. Much of the creek bottom is a flat pavement of dolomite, covered with lots of small snails and fish darting all around the pools.

Some lichens are drapped from the eastern red cedar branches above the cliffs

After enjoying your time at the cliffs, you go upstream a little way until you find the trail crossing the creek. The trail will now climb gradually and head into the oak/hickory/cedar forest for about 1 mile. When you encounter an unsigned trail intersection, bear right. The trail coming in from the left is coming down from Pilot Knob, which is the highest point in the wilderness.

This route will then head approximately 1 mile slight downhill to the southeast before arriving at another trail intersection. A sign will say "Tower" to the left. That is the other trailhead access to the wilderness on the eastern end approximately 3 miles away. Turn right instead and soon you will at the creek again. Here, the creek is a flat limestone pavement. It is almost like some built a road down the middle of this hollow. It is lined with sycamores and maples and the pavement it broken up in sections to make little waterfalls and cascades. There was no water flowing at the time we were there. Just turn right and follow the creekbed less than a quarter-mile to the falls. If water is still flowing, the trail parallels the creek on the far side.

A break in the limestone pavement of Long Creek

Then you arrive at the waterfall. It is a notch dug into the layers of dolomite and an excellent place to eat lunch. It is fun to hope around on the slabs of rocks and explore the area.

In this region, these kinds of river features are called "shut-ins"

After you have enjoyed your time here, it is time for the final 4 miles back to the trailhead. Here you will backtrack up the creek a few hundred yards and look for the trail heading up slope to the southwest. The trail will climb to the ridgetop. As you approach the ridgeline, the vegetation will change over from the oak/hickory forest to an open grassy area full of large eastern red cedar. These are the "glades" that gives Hercules Glades its name.

Historically, these areas would have been larger and more open, providing excellent views, but fire suppression and the planting of these eastern red cedars by farmers as wind breaks has allowed for this invasion. These trees are not cedars, but actually junipers and they are a native species. But, they are far more common, even weedy, than they were historically. As you go from glade to glade, with tantalizing glimpses, but no real views across the landscape, it can get frustrating. But, fear not, as you approach the top of Coy Bald, those views will be there!

Coy Bald view across the wilderness, with Long Creek Hollow in the middle

These glades are formed because the soils are so shallow here with a solid limestone pavement below, that only arid adapted plants can grow here. The grasses are those typical of the tallgrass prairie and there are even some plants common to the southwest, including prickly pear cactus.

A nice view of the landscape

The trail will go in and out of openings for the next half mile or so.

As you look to the north, you can see the edge of the Ozarks and the flatter plains of Missori beyond

Eventually the trail reenters the oak/hickory stands with really beautiful stands of white oak. White oak is a fire adapted species that can survive in droughty soils. You can often find it in sandy soils up north, but it excels here in these limestone soils as well.

The trail will go in and out of forest and glade for the last 1.5 miles before returning back to the trailhead. This really was an enjoyable hike and if you are ever in Southern Missouri, you should check it out.

PS- If you don't really want to do the hike and/or the weather doesn't allow, there is an alternative for you. It is called the Glade Top Trail and it is a Forest Service Scenic-Byway that runs through the area. This 23-mile dirt road that runs from Bradleyville to Ava allows people to drive through the glades on the nearby ridgetops with excellent views as well!