Iron Mountain Loop, Black Elk Wilderness, South Dakota

Distance: 5.1 mile loop (8.2 km)
Elevation: 4,950 - 5,350 feet (1,509 - 1630 m)
Difficulty: Moderately Easy
Season: May - October

Located in the heart of the beautiful Black Elk Wilderness of the Black Hills National Forest, the Iron Mountain Loop provides a relatively easy 5.1 mile loop, with little elevation gain, nice forested scenary, and interesting rock formations. It isn't a hike of spectacular vistas like Harney Peak, but rather a pleasant stroll through the landscape that you are looking down onto from Harney Peak's summit.

Hilina "resting" on the rock near the trailhead

To get to the trailhead, take US-16a south from Mount Rushmore NM about 3 miles or north from Custer State Park about 14 miles. Drive until you see Iron Mountain Picnic Area and park there. The trail initially starts out as trail 89b and heads through a forest of ponderosa pine. This area of the wilderness does not appear to have been hit as hard by the mountain pine beetle. As such, the trees are the largest and healthiest we have seen in this area.

After about 1.5 miles, the trail enters a lowland meadow with some beautiful aspen and birch stands. After almost 2 miles, the trail arrives at a T-intersection with #89 (Centennial Trail) heading left and right. Heading right will take you over to Mount Rushmore (via the Blackberry Trail) in 2 miles. If you head left, the trail will slowly descend down toward some really interesting rock formations.



Entering the "gauntlet"

All along the way, the trail glitters with sparkles from bits of mica and there are huge quartz crystals laying around everywhere, owing to the metamorphized granite formations of this landscape. You will follow the Centennial Trail 0.5 miles to the Grizzly Bear Trail #7 amongst some beautiful high rock walls. Follow the Grizzly Bear Trail until reaching the small dirt road. Turn left following the road 1 mile.

There must have been 10 beaver dams along this one mile stretch of creek

The dirt road is small enough that traffic is minimal and traveling very slowly, so no dust clouds. It is actually about the best section of the hike, as you continually cross over beautiful Iron Creek with its numerous beaver dams, rock formations, big spruce trees, and aspen/birch stands in full autumn splendor in late September.

Iron Creek meandering along the rock faces

Then you will encounter the Iron Mountain Trail #12 on the left and you follow up up slope for 1.7 miles. This is the hardest part of the hike, as you climb approximately 350 feet in elevation through a forest of ponderosa pines, including some of the largest I've seen in the Black Hills. When you reach Trail #89b again, you have completed the loop and you turn right and follow it back to the parking lot.

Spruce and Birch Mix along the creekside

Harney Peak Loop, Black Hills National Forest, South Dakota

Distance: 6.8 miles round trip (10.9 km)

Elevation: 6,100 - 7,242 feet (1,860 - 2,207 m) 

Difficulty: Moderate

Season: May to October

View of Harney Peak (far left distance) from near start of the #9 trail

Owing to its status as the highest peak in South Dakota, the highest peak in the United States east of the Rockies, and one with panoramic views of the entire Black Hills region and the plains and badlands to the east, Harney Peak is hike extensively, even by many people you usually don't see on a hike that climbs over 1100 feet in elevation or is nearly 7 miles long. 

But, despite the crowds, this mountain is absolutely well worth the effort. It is best to get started early in the day, not only to avoid the crowds, but also to avoid the big thunderstorms that can build quickly in this region of the country. Remember, at the summit, you are 1000 feet above all of the other peaks around you, so if there is lightning, this is where it will strike.

There are several ways to get to Harney Peak trailhead. The trailhead is located at popular Sylvan Lake along the famous Needles Highway. Once at the trailhead, there are two routes you can take, which provides for an opportunity to make a loop out of it.

On the way up, you will pass lots of dead and dying trees due to mountain pine beetle

The shorter way up, which is less scenic and more crowded, is the #9 trail. It is well marked and wide and you just follow it up a little over 3 miles to the summit. About 1/2 mile from the summit, the #3 trail branches to the right. Remember that, because it is the way you will be heading back.

Just before the tower, there is a little tunnel and some steep metal stairs

Just about a quarter mile to the summit, the Harney Peak Lookout spur trail will branch left and head up to the rocky summit. There is a hitching post for horses, then a set of steep metal stairs before arriving at the lookout tower, built in the 1930's by the CCC.

Of course I am sweaty. That was a hot steep climb. Hilina took her nap and was feeling quite rested at the top

From the summit, the views are magnificent. You can see almost the entire Black Hills region. To the north are Mount Terry and Mount Roosevelt (talked about on a previous post). All around to the east is the limestone rim that contains the granite core.



Limestone rim in the distance

 The Black Hills are sort of a mountain range in reverse. The granite core is really ancient rock, some over 1.6 billion years old. It was covered up by limestone in shallow seas about 350 million years ago, and later by sandstone. But, as the range uplifted 60 mya into a dome, at a height of 15,000 feet, the top younger materials eroded first, such that the core was exposed last and remains the highest area, while the lower sections of the dome on the edges are the youngest materials.

The view east towards the prairies and badlands
Backside of Mt. Rushmore is visible as rock wall slightly right

Cathedral Spires and "The Needles" to the south

The view to the north

On the way down, you turn left at Trail #4 and follow it down. It seemed EVERYONE was taking the same #9 back that they came up. So, we had #4 to ourselves. In addition, it was the way more scenic route. That is because it takes you right into the heart of the Cathedral Spires and past Little Devil's Tower.

You stay on #3 as it passes #7 Grizzley Bear Trail. However, when you reach the junction with the #4 trail stay right and follow #4 back to the campground. Shortly thereafter, you enter the Cathedral Spires area.

There is one confusing spot, where you encounter a sign saying Cathedral Spires downhill and to the left and Little Devils Tower straight. Just stay straight. Later the Little Devil's Tower spur will branch right, which you can ignore. The trail eventually arrives at a parking lot. But, if you continue on the #4, it will take you back to Sylvan Lake in about another 1/2 mile.

Cathedral Spires and yes that is a rock climber on top of the spire near the center